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If you’re travelling by train along the quiet southern coast between Osaka and Nagoya, there’s one stop that might not make the average tourist itinerary, but in our experience, is absolutely worth including.
Tucked into the forested mountains near Kii-Katsuura is one of Japan’s most iconic and peaceful scenes: the dramatic drop of Nachi Waterfall with the elegant red Seiganto-ji pagoda rising in the foreground. This really is the postcard perfect Japan.
It’s not the easiest place to get to, but that’s part of the charm. This guide will take you through how to get there, what to expect, and why this might just be a highlight of your trip through Japan.
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Getting to Kii-Katsuura
To visit Nachi Waterfall and the nearby temple complex, you’ll first need to make your way to Kii-Katsuura. This small fishing town is surprisingly accessible by train, even if it feels worlds away from the bustle of the big cities. They also have some of the best tuna sashimi we have ever tried!
From Osaka, the easiest option is to take the Kuroshio Limited Express train from Shin-Osaka Station. The journey takes around 4 hours and costs approximately ¥7,020. This route is covered by the Japan Rail Pass and the Kansai Wide Area Pass, which can be a great way to save a bit of money (if you’re already using rail passes for your trip).
If you’re travelling from Nagoya, you can take the Limited Express Nanki train direct to Kii-Katsuura. This route takes just under 4 hours and costs around ¥7,200. One thing to note: there’s a small surcharge of ¥830 due to a short stretch on the Ise Railway, which isn’t covered by the standard JR Pass. It’s not a dealbreaker, but worth bearing in mind when planning your trip.
Both routes follow the coast, with peaceful views out across the Pacific and occasional glimpses of rural villages and wooded mountains. The journey itself is part of the experience. Grab a bento box for the train to make the whole trip even more memorable.
Travelling around Osaka with kids? Don’t miss our Full and In-depth itinerary Osaka with Kids
Getting to Nachi Waterfall from Kii-Katsuura
Once you arrive in Kii-Katsuura, the next step is to get up into the hills. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on your preferences and how much time you have.
The simplest option is to take the Nankai Rinkan bus that runs hourly from Kii-Katsuura Station to Nachisan. This takes about 25 minutes and costs between ¥440 and ¥600, depending on which stop you use. You’ll want to stay on until the end of the line. Buses are easy to use and clearly signposted. If you’re visiting during peak times, they can get quite full, but most travellers find them reliable and straightforward.
If you’re short on time or prefer not to wait, a taxi from the station to Nachisan takes less than 10 minutes and usually costs around ¥4,000–¥5,000. It’s a good option for families or small groups.
If you are up for a walk, it’s technically possible to hike the whole way. The route follows quiet roads and paths and takes just under two hours on foot. It’s a pleasant walk, but be aware that it’s mostly uphill.
The Approach: Daimonzaka Walking Trail
If you have the time, we strongly recommend starting your visit with the Daimonzaka trail. This is a short stretch of the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, and one of the most atmospheric sections. The walk is around 600 metres and follows a moss-covered stone path lined with towering cedar trees. It’s not too strenuous, but there are about 270 steps, so you’ll want to take it at your own pace.
Walking this trail offers a quiet build-up to the main sites. It’s a great way to connect with the history of the area and to imagine what it must have felt like for pilgrims arriving here hundreds of years ago. If you’re visiting with young kids or pushing a pram, this route might be a bit tricky—there are no flat alternatives once you’re on the steps. Personally we travel with a sling for places like this.
Exploring Seiganto-ji Temple and the Pagoda
At the top of the trail, you’ll reach Seiganto-ji Temple, which is part of the wider Nachi shrine and temple complex.
The three-storey pagoda is the highlight here. You can explore inside for a small entry fee of ¥300, and it’s open daily from 8:30 am to 4:00 pm. It’s worth going in—not just to learn about the temple’s history, but also for the view from the upper floor. From here, you’ll see the pagoda set against the waterfall—a view that appears on postcards and guidebooks, but feels different when you’re standing there in person.
Walking Down to Nachi Waterfall
From the temple, it’s a short downhill walk to the waterfall itself. There’s a small shop and viewing area at the bottom where you can pay ¥300 for a closer look. We recommend doing this—it brings you right up to the base of the falls, and you can really feel the power of the water.
Nachi Waterfall is the tallest uninterrupted waterfall in Japan, falling 133 metres in a single drop. There’s something grounding about standing here, watching the water crash down into the pool below. It’s not a showy or dramatic spot—just clean, rushing water and the surrounding forest.
The viewing area is well-maintained, with a few benches and a shaded shelter. There are no changing rooms or lockers, so it’s best to travel light and bring a bottle of water, especially in the warmer months.
What to Expect
In our experience, this isn’t a place to rush through. You might spend an hour or two just sitting near the falls, walking the paths between the temple buildings, and taking it all in.
It’s worth noting that the weather can be unpredictable in the mountains. It’s often misty or overcast even in good seasons, and the stone paths can get slippery after rain. Sturdy shoes are a good idea, and it’s best to avoid flip flops or anything without grip.
Food options are limited at the top, so we’d suggest bringing a snack or grabbing something in Kii-Katsuura before you set off. That said, there are a few small cafés and souvenir shops near the bus stop and temple entrance—mostly selling snacks, drinks, and a few locally made items.
Is it worth visiting the pagoda and waterfall?
Nachi Waterfall and Seiganto-ji don’t feel like a major tourist attraction—and that’s exactly why we think you should go. It’s a place that rewards a bit of effort and planning. If you’re already heading along the south coast by train, this makes for a perfect side trip. And if you’re not? It might just be worth changing your route to fit it in.
We’d suggest arriving mid-morning and allowing half a day if you’re taking the bus. If you’re planning to walk the Daimonzaka trail or explore more of the Kumano Kodo, you could easily spend longer here. Either way, this is a quiet, thoughtful place that feels a little removed from the usual tourist trail—and that’s something we’ve come to really appreciate.
